Each year in early June, as spring is rising in a crescendo to summer, I like to spend a few days camping at Bridge Bay along Yellowstone Lake. There’s something about Yellowstone Lake that beckons me – it’s like this pulsing watery heart around which the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem is centered. I am called to witness the way the golden light plays across Hayden Valley in the late evening, the smell of earth and sage as the ground warms in the morning, the magic stillness of pre-dawn, elk calv