It feels almost illegal for a wine writer to say this but there are times when only a cheap bottle will do. I’m not talking ...

This is why you can now pick up claret for little more than a fiver; try Chevaliers St Martin 2022 Bordeaux, France (14%, Morrisons, £5.45). Campo Viejo Rioja Reserva 2017, Spain, 14% ...

Which one should I feature? I compromised; the recipe below uses both port and claret. It will taste good with any freshly opened light red wine. Don't use a bottle that has been sitting around.